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Our
adventures in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus continue....
  
Ugh, why is it that planes take off at some ungodly hours of the morning and there is this need to be at the airport, at least two hours before take off.
After what seemed to be an incredibly short week, our friends Les & Jill are going back home to UK. They only came for my birthday bash, but say they have enjoyed every minute of their stay. I suppose that even if they had stayed a bit longer we would still have all had to get up at 4 a.m. one morning soon.
The next time that Joan will see them will be when she goes over in September, to join Les on his Kawasaki weekend in Holland. On that note, we looked on the airline websites for flight tickets, about two weeks ago and came up with a return ticket at £200.00. Since then of course there has been all the hue and cry about oil prices, so when we came to look again and make a firm booking, the price had gone up to £280.00. Should have booked three weeks ago.
We had originally decided that we had enough of eating out for a little while, but then the gang decided to try Rosy's place here in Lapta for the Thursday evening get together. It is in fact a beach bar just down the road which always seems to be quite busy. Good choice as we had some good food and they coped very well with a large crowd and at the end of the evening it only cost 25YTL each.
Newspaper day again and the headlines are that one of the marina projects has been turned down once more. The £12 million scheme for 543 berths and some apartments was turned down in 2005 and again in 2006 by the Supreme Monuments Council. There are two historic sites dating back to 400 BC near the site, one of which was an ancient port and the Department of Ancient Monuments is keen to protect this area. The site was leased to the new potential developer for a period of 49 years, in 2007. Is it me, or would I have thought seriously about signing the lease knowing it had been turned down on two previous occasions.
Marion Stokes of the HBPG has made another attempt at an initiative to resolve the issue of permissions to buy here. This time one of the leading bodies, the Construction Contractors Union, just failed to turn up for the meeting. She really must feel like giving up sometimes, as the authorities just don't seem to want to resolve all these issues. Maybe there are underlying reasons which the government is not telling about, maybe related to the overall land issue, linked to any future settlement on the island.
Yet another possible in the Aga Saga, or the Amaranta Valley project. Now it is reported that Gary Robb may sell out to two un-named firms from Turkey who will undertake to complete all his projects. Currently there is no work being undertaken on the site, despite a deal being brokered back in January. Two of the companies who have done work, say they have not been paid, so are barracading the site. This one just goes on and on with no resolution for the original investors and the damage being done to the building industry here is immense.
The government is once again desperate for income and their employees, of which there are many thousands, have decided to help out by going on strike for more money. There are so many people working, or sitting around attending and claiming pensions in government departments here that it is a huge drain on the economy. Having said that of course, there is no social security system, so this alternative of giving people jobs, forcing them to get up and attend probably costs no more, but is better for morale. The only problem for us and the local residents, is the continued rise in living costs here.
On the resolution to the overall island issue there has been another meeting between the two presidents, but there is considerable unease at the lack of any progress. They did agree to meet again later this month but after the original positive beginning this year things are back to normal. The issues are huge and a solution seems just as far away as it did when we came here in 2002.
Quick early morning note about the weather which remains very hot and sometimes humid. Temperaures are around the top 30s every day and the pool is starting to feel like bathwater, but a lot cooler than standing around outside it. We now have the monthly period of high winds at the moment, which coincides with the phases of the moon.
This morning, Joan and I are off to the mainland, only until next Monday, but we have heard tell that the coast opposite us here, west of Antalya, is quite beautiful, so we are going to see for ourselves. Look out for some pics when we get back.
We flew in to Antalya yesterday afternoon, sorted out a hire car and drove westwards along the coast to the coastal village of Kas. We stopped at Kemer on the way for some lunch and a little nosy round. Kemer is clearly very nice as a holiday resort, with many very new big hotels and I suppose as it is relatively close to Antalya, will attract many locals on holiday as well as Europeans who don't want long transfer jouneys.
The journey along the coast takes quite some time. Not because of the distance but because of the very twisty coastal road. The views along the journey are tremendous but you do need your wits about you when driving. Hairpin after hairpin and lots of hilly bits, but for the passenger just one more beautiful view after the other.
We arrived in the early evening, no rush really as we are on holiday, found ourselves a great hotel and checked out the view from our balcony. Now this I can live with for the next few days. After a shower we walked down to the harbour to discover a myriad of fine restaurants to choose from and a couple of small bars for the pre dinner G&T. This I can live with for the next few days.
We met up with our friends, a guy I used to work with and his wife who suggested the holiday in the first place. We all decided that a boat trip was the way to see things and to relax for the day. We selected one of the smaller boats and ended up with only six of us and the captain on board. We left the harbour at Kas about 10.30 a.m. with the promise of a number of swimming stops and lunch on board, for what amounted to £20.00 per head.
From the boat you can get a view of Kas and you can see the development that has gone on, around what must have been originally a very small fishing village.
Our guy stopped in a couple of places he knew were the water was incredibly clear, so excellent for snorkeling. Later when we were on our way to the lunch stop, we came across one other boat that had engine troubles. Our man said it could happen to me one day, so threw them a line and towed them to a quiet spot, where there was no swell so that they could work in comfort. Later when we checked back with them they had solved the problem and got going again themselves. With that sorted out, we then moored up in a super cove to swim in and this turned out to be our lunch stop also.
Mustafa, our captain had done a super job so far and now acted as chef and cooked us some sea bream on the bone, served up with a huge tomato salad and fresh rolls. It was absolutely glorious washed down wth a couple of cold drinks, just set me up for the afternoon nap.
Later we moored up in another bay for an afternoon swim and had settled back on board for some fresh fruit. Melon, pears, plums etc when this beautiful vessel came in to the large bay and dropped anchor. This thing must have been at least 150' long and looked almost brand spanking new. Fancy state rooms, a couple of speed boats in davits and a uniformed crew of at least 10 that we could see. We later learnt that a couple of Hollywood stars had been seen around Kas, apparantly Naomi Walsh and a David Fisher. Being a real film buff, I had never heard of them. How the other half live, but we six reckoned that we had much more fun with our crazy captain for the day. We sailed right around this vessel to get a closer look and discovered that it was registered in Georgetown and called Athena.
We went slowly back in the direction of the harbour with Joan just catching a bit more sun and then the captain said that if they had mermaids on the front of their boat, then we could have mermaids too. I was just happy to relax at the end of a super day out. Joan and the captain got us back in the direction of Kas and we moored up again at around 6 p.m.
Back to the hotel, a long cool shower and then a couple of drinks in the town followed by a very light meal later. A really great day which I reckon Joan and I will try to repeat towards rhe end of the summer.
We decided to drive further along to the west and visit Fethiye as one or two of our friends had been on holiday there and said it was worth a visit.
There are clearly many lovely places along this coast, but just a quick visit does not give you a real chance to view them properly. We did stop for morning coffee at Kalkan and this is like Kas, small, built up along the mountains surrounding a lovely bay and harbour. Out of curiosity we picked up an estate agents brochure and there are a wide variety of properties for sale ranging from apartments at £45,000 to villas at £550,000, take your pick.
As for Fethiye, a bit too big for our choice, but an interesting place and we walked around close to the harbour area, where we had a nice light lunch. We sat and watched a fisherman in a small boat who had recruited two ladies to do his net repairs whilst he sat and watched and guided them. Situation normal here in Turkey.
Late in the afternoon we drove back to Kas, quite pleased that we had decided to make this place our base. It really is quite lovely and not so touristy as places like Fethiye.
As we drove in to Kas, we spotted a market and wandered around there for a little while. Joan ended up buying two huge bathsheets, really soft cotton, for only £8.00 each. Two small suitacses between us and now two huge bath towels. Oh dear!
Last day in Kas and a lazy one. Isn't that what holidays are really about?
From our hotel terrace you will recall the view across to a large bay. Well in this bay are three beaches which can only be reached by boat. Simple, you go down to the harbour and for 10YTL there is a regular taxi service to these beaches. When you get near the boatman asks which one and you just make your choice. Having never been across there before we opted for the first one he came to, good choice. Lovely big sunbeds in the shade, or in Joan's case in the sun, a nice restaurant with fresh coffee in the morning, home cooked lunches and the usual range of things to wash it all down.
In between a few sessions in the water to cool off, some reading, which lead to the inevitable zzzzzzzzzzz and a nice lunch, we can only say an excellent day. The last taxi back is at 6.30 so we were in time to shower, visit our favourite bar in town and have a late dinner.
Super last day in Kas, as tomorrow we are heading back to Antalya.
We left the hotel around 10 a.m. for the long drive back to Antalya. As I said earlier in the diary, it is a long drive and you need to be well aware of the bends and the other drivers, many of whom seem to be in a real hurry, Turkish style. We of course stopped for a coffee break on the way and got to Antalya around 1.30 p.m. We also spotted this self supporting mosque on the way. First time we have ever seen them selling things in a shop at the front.
Why not spoil ourselves we said as we spotted the Sheraton near the main road. A little negotiation for a late arrival and we decided to say and enjoy the extra comfort. They do have these huge comfy beds in every Sheraton worldwide.
Once we had settled in we walked along the cliff top to Antalya harbour, specifically looking out for a restaurant called The China Garden, which had come highly recommended. Found it and booked for later in the evening and then continued our walk along the cliff top. From there we could look down on the beach front at Antalya with it's hundreds of umbrellas.
Once back at the hotel we took advantage of their big outdoor pool and then set off for our Chinese dinner.
Our friend Richard had recommended this restaurant and he was so right. One of the best Chinese meals we have had for many a day. We just picked one of the set menus which had Peking duck for starters and then beef, chicken and duck in the main courses with the usual veg and fried rice. It was really good and so very much of it that we decided that the ony thing to do was walk back to the hotel. We needed the exercise.
Back in time for "Boys night out" and the numbers are dwindling. George of course has gone back to UK for 1 year at least, Andrew has gone back for 2 weeks on holiday, Jeff is still over there having chemo treatment, so that left just four of us to sit out in the cool of the Karsiyaka village park and enjoy a couple of beers and a chinwag. Next week it will be even less, as Roger and Bryan are also going to UK to visit family, so it will be down to Stewart and I to keep up the tradition.
We tried the London Turan restaurant this evening in Alsancak, very near the Denizkizi hotel. Good value for money but you need to be quite specific about what you order. Some, who had been before, said that the cod and chips was really lovely, so Bryan, Joan and I ordered that. What we actually got was sea bream on the bone because the chef said he got and order in the kitchen for fish & chips and that is what he served. Oops, but one does learn for the next time.
Now that we are back on the island we can buy the local English language newspaper again and see what they have to say.
First major item is the bypass. Surprise for us all that there is uncertainty about completion as the government has run out of money and needs to get the begging bowl out in Turkey. The same thing seems to apply to the Northern Coastal road, both schemes were started in March 2006 and should have been completed in 2007. Lets hope that they are successful at begging.
There have been a number of complaints about mail not being delivered over here. The local post office say that all mail that arrives on the island is delivered within 72 hours, but that there are many cases of incorrectly addressed mail going over to the South and then eventually finding its way back over here. It is essential that all mail addressed to people here uses the postcode MERSIN 10, TURKEY. Nowhere in the address should CYPRUS appear as this causes confusion between North and South.
The Prime Minister has revealed that there will be a major cabinet reshuffle in the next few weeks, to try to tackle the serious economic problems on the island. Personally I can't see how shuffling the same people round is going to resolve the problem and other parties are demanding an early election as they say people have lost faith in the lot in power. Question? Is there anybody in opposition who has enough knowledge to solve the issues?
CTA, the national airline is in the news again. Thay have declared that they will be $70 millon in debt by the end of the year. They now have 5 airplanes, 700 staff and are blaming unfair competition as being the main reason for their failure. They are going to restructure but not cull any staff and buy a new plane to cure their problems. No comment.
PEACE AND FREEDOM DAY.
July 20th this year, celebrates 34 years since the Turkish intervention on the island. Every year there are parades, speeches by dignitaries and a fly past by Turkish Red Arrows.
Six of us joined The African Queen at 12 midday to swim and lunch around some of the bays around Kyrenia. First stop was Escape Beach, one our group have always tried to avoid. I know that today was real reason for people to celebrate but this place is just out of control. Jetskis driven by under age kids and older show-offs in between the boats were people are swimming and not a coast guard in sight. There are supposed to be rules about the use of these things, but guess it is going to be a death in the water that may make people sit up and take notice.
After a couple of other stops, we sailed back towards the harbour to anchor up and to watch the Turkish Air Force display. They came in across the water at exactly 6 p.m. and somebody was heard to comment "they are obviously not Turkish Cypriots, as they are on time". Guess it must have been somebody with a delayed villa..... As usual we were entertained with a superb performance which included such things as the high speed pass and the really impressive one were somebody must say one of us is upside down. They looked incredibly close and surely only needs a very small error for it to go wrong. They finished off with all eight aircraft climbing and rolling over the boats and the crowd. One thing we all noticed is that they are so much nearer to the crowds than the UK version of the Red Arrows would be allowed.
Absolutely no "Boys Night Out" last night. Why, well very many of the boys have gone to UK to see family etc and this morning, Pat & Bryan wanted picking up at 4 a.m., yes that's right, 4 a.m., to be taken to Ercan airport for their trip to UK for the next 5 weeks. It's like a mass exodus over here at the moment. Wonder if it's something we said.
This evening, because there are only four of the gang around, Joan and I, Anne and Stewart, all went down the road to the Asmali restaurant. We did get some not so good news from Anne. Jeff is coming back home tomorrow, but has to start a new, different round of chemo when he goes back in three weeks, because the tumour has not responded as they would have wished. Feels like 9 weeks wasted really, most dissapointing and disheartening for them both.
Anne had half of her family arriving in Larnaca this evening and Jeff was due in to Ercan at 9 p.m., so Joan and I went to Ercan to collect him.
He looked quite dapper in his panama hat, covering the bald head, but has put on even more weight due to all the steroids he is takng. Apart from a loss of voice he is very cheerful about the whole business and just has to keep up the good fight.
He has got three weeks here before the next round and during that time he will have son and daughter, their spouses and all six grandchildren over here, so that should keep him from getting too bored.
Joan and I went over to Ikea, in the south, this morning. She needed to get the basic utensils for kitting out an apartment she is doing for somebody. You are restricted as to how much you can bring over the border, but this place is great for things like tableware, pots and pans etc. Obviously we had to do the, "lets see what there is in the Debenhams sale" bit, whilst we were there, fortunately for me not too much.
This evening, just the two of us, went to Haci Ali's restaurant. We had not been there since they did such a super job on my birthday and felt that Mustapha might think we were not happy with him. At least that was our excuse not to bother cooking for ourselves.
Up really early this morning to do some pruning and hedge cutting befor eit gets too hot. Guess what? My 6 year old hedge trimmer, that has been misbehaving for a while, finally decided enough was enough and packed up all together. I did manage to get the front hedge done before this happened and then resorted to the old fashioned hand clippers. Far too much like hard work in the heat, so that's the end of that until I get some new electric kit.
At 11 o'clock Stewart turned up for brunch. We had said something about, black pudding, bacon, sausage, grilled toms and fried eggs etc, on Wednesday evening and the idea seemed to appeal to him.
The rest of a very hot and humid day was spent in lazy mode, in the pool, reading etc and then rounded off with some BBQ chicken and salad and a bottle of wine, in the cool of the evening.
The newspaper reports that official talks about re-unification are to start in September. After these plans are agreed by both sides then simultaneous referendums will be staged on both sides, to allow the people to make the final decidion. Still think that it will be along drawn out process, but progress we have.
You know we have been saying how the economy here is struggling, well a report by the Social and Economic Research centre has suggested that up to £2 billion has been lost due to unsold properties. They also found that the government is losing up to £200 million a year due to delays in permssion to purchase applications. Now many have been saying this for some time, but is there an underlying reason, such as no desire to issue more deeds whilst re-unification talks are on going. Who knows.
In a desperate attempt to raise more funds, the government has decided to raise road tax fees. For example, on my Honda estate I paid 115 YTL this year and this will be 360 YTL next time round. At the same time driving licence fees and other charges from this department have also increased drastically causing a bit of an uproar among the general public. The Consumers Association has asked the government to resign honourably as they clearly cannot control the economy.
Work has started again on the Amaranta site after a deal with a Turkish company. The promise is that those people who wanted their properties completed will get them by Xmas, others will get their money back when completed properties are resold and the Turkish company gets the remaining 40 properties, which were not sold as its profit for completing. Progress at last, lets hope so.
A $350 million project to pipe water from Turkey, under the sea, has been agreed. Work is to start next June and the pipeline will be completed by 2012. In the meantime we will struggle if we don't get very heavy winter rains.
The end of a quiet month really, due to the departure of many to cooler climates and to the fact that it is very hot and humid, which means some enthusiasm wanes on the activity front. Looks like a boat trip in the offing next week, as the rest of Anne and Jeff's extended family have arrived. There are now twelve of them in Karsiyaka.
On Tuesday evening, I met up with Jeff and the two boys for a couple of beers. We used the excuse of having to swop cars over as a reason for me to go to them. Anne had taken my car to Larnaca as she needed to collect four of them and I had been running about in her little Mazda Demio. That is one advantage here, the car is insured not the driver so that makes these things easier.
Just in case you thought I was joking about it being too hot to do much. At lunch time today I sat out under our gazebo, with a gentle breeze blowing through and the temperature gauge there in the shade was reading 101 degrees F.
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